Mondello, a 20 minute bus ride out of town from our hotel, could be called the Palm Beach of Palermo. Back from the beachfront, elegant mansions built in styles redolent of North African houses nestle in the shade amongst tall palms and pine trees, behind high stone walls, and there are more Mercedes and Audis abandoned across the footpaths (as is the Italian way of parking) here than elsewhere.
The beachfront is dominated by a glorious Art Nouveau pier, much of which is, disappointingly, off limits to anyone not dining on the terrace at the exclusive restaurant where diners can keep an eye on their yachts moored offshore while dining on such local delicacies as swordfish, sea urchins and squid. – eeeeyyewww!!!!
The water is clear and inviting – like Lady Martin’s Beach (our favourite haunt on Sydney Harbour) on a good day. The beach itself is another matter entirely.
Hundreds of pale blue and white wooden bathing boxes are erected in rows at right angles to the promenade, running down to within about 4 metres of the water’s edge, their sandy surrounds fenced off, leaving very little beach on which the cash-challenged can spread their beach towels.
To reach the beautiful, turquoise-coloured waters you have to pick your way gingerly between basking bodies, beach towels, umbrellas, and hawkers selling everything from blow-up beach toys to sparkly headbands, necklaces, scarves, fridge magnets and slices of coconut.
I think we've been spoiled by our beautiful (free!!!!!) Australian beaches.
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